Going Shopping

 Besties...

 The Redhead is a tired girl!

*Middle aged novice construction worker in uniform*

 These boots have been on daily by 7:30 AM, but I'm

learning tons of new tricks as we remodel, and tiny details

that you wouldn't think of, like which way the dryer door opens in

 relation to the washer...

 ...or how a shower stall opens.

 This quarter round unit slides on a track, meaning no precious real estate 

is taken up with a swinging door.

That's an important factor when you're in a wheelchair

and rolling up to your shower.

 The textured, raindrop patterned glass is elegant and provides

just enough privacy.

The patio furniture is another consideration.

Profiles need to be compact and slim, and pieces need

to move easily.

 

 This set up from IKEA is a perfect potting center for a disabled

Master Gardener.

The deck box will hold and hide her gardening bag and bonsai pots,

and the adjustable shelves will add customizable storage as she discovers

her specific needs.

All the pieces are sold separately, so you can plan and purchase 

exactly the configuration that will store all of your supplies.

 This skinny cart on wheels is light and easily portable.

Since the deck will be flush with the indoors, it can be loaded for entertaining

in the kitchen and then towed outside to guests without help.

 This great little device underneath corrals bottles so the arrive upright

and ready to pop a cork.

 A small sectional, also incredibly light, is perfectly versatile.

We did a test, and even in a wheelchair, our homeowner can

rearrange the pieces by herself.

End pieces both with and without arms make it easy for her to

slide into a seat solo and join her guests.

Independence and manageability are a priority here.

 Today, we're looking at practical things, like vents for the bathrooms.

Remember these utilitarian, ugly plastic things?

 What say we ignore those and go in THIS direction!

Yes, there's a fan hidden in there!

So you get a chic vintage look and no fogged up mirrors,

all with a touch of style.

I, um, also need to restock the house.

There are still people, pups, and Feline Overlords to feed!

So...

Headed for Walmart, Home Depot, and Lowes.

BRB.

If not back, avenge death.

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Hard Core Remodeling but Were Afraid to Ask Part 5!

When's the last time you found a stud?

Do you know where to look?

And how spread out should your studs be?

Are you paying attention for the first time all week?

This all means it's time once again for

 Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Hard Core Remodeling but Were Afraid to Ask!

And today, we'll be making not only the framework for a wall,

but an embarrassing amount of stud and wood jokes!

 

 When we ripped out the walls this is the shoddy crap we found.

Please note how far apart the studs are, as well as how some are

just sort of floating in the air, unattached.

And what's going on with that electrical box hovering tacked to

stacked scraps???

This is what's known in professional circles as

"garbage."

 Studs are supposed to be "16-on-center."

This means that from the middle of one stud to the middle of the next

should measure exactly 16".

 Tape measures are made to help you do that quickly.

See the red box around the number 16?

All increments of 16 on a tape measure are red.

How's that for handy?

 So we're going to mark where are studs should go along the length of the top board.

 The old wood is getting dismissed with the help of a sawzall.

This handy cutting tool will go right through nails.

 Keeping in mind that a 2x4 is in reality 1.5x3.5 

(yes, the size of wood has once again been misrepresented),

mark 1 1/2 inch spaces for the base and tops of the vertical studs.

 Measure how tall you want the studs.

We're making a pass through in this wall with a recessed area for leashes and keys,

plus a perch for a purse,

so that the lady of the house won't have to maneuver her wheelchair

around the usual drop zone we all have in the entryway.

 Pencil in your heights while you're at it.

 Measure and cut the new studs.

 We'll put the different sizes aside.

 THIS baby is a nail gun!

If you can add one to your arsenal, DO IT!!!

Although driving nails by hand is easy, imagine firing them rapid fire

into the frame.

The nails come in clips that load as easily as your upholstery staple gun.

 Now, position the stud.

 Line it up.

Check it with your level.

Seriously, all this caution will make sure your results are perfect.

 Nail the perpendicular structure at the top first.

 Check your measurements one more time.

"Toenail" in the bottoms.

Why toenail?

Take a look at your piggies and the angle at which your nails disappear under your cuticles.

Most codes require two nails on one side and one on the other per board.

 We're now ready to add the sill.

 Pop that puppy on top.

 If you're still having tremors over the nail gun, relax.

The Redhead used it, and look how it sinks nails so completely.

There you have it!

We've framed the entryway.

We'll have the pros add new electrical to accommodate a cooktop

and wall oven on the other side, and then add drywall and a finished sill.

And of course, we'll be dragging you along!

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Hard Core Remodeling but Were Afraid to Ask Part 4!

Intimidated yet?

Impressed?

Bored out of your mind?

Not even considering doing your own beams?

Want something more manageable to tackle yourself?

 Maybe even save a little money?

Then welcome to

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Hard Core Remodeling but Were Afraid to Ask!

 And today we'll be discussing the baseline!

Er...baseboards.

Those often gross, uninteresting bits of trim that you inherit from builders

or previous owners that are hard to look at.

These had no statement, no oomph.

I know, you'd rather hire a pro to come in and replace them with something

heftier, more detailed and decorative, right?

But would removing the old ones keep a little ka-ching in your pocket?

Absolutely!

And there's nothing to it!

 All you need is a hammer and a pry bar.

 Start at a corner if possible and wiggle the edge of the pry bar into the top

of the molding.

 A couple of light taps with a hammer and you're in!

 Now just pry the baseboard away from the wall, moving along the length

of piece and using the pry bar as a lever.

 BOOM!

Off it comes!

12 feet in 3 minutes flat.

Yeah, it's that easy.

These things are just tacked on, so when your contractor comes in,

he can finish the job,

And you have craft supply money.

Wanna save even more money?

In a couple of weeks, I'll show you how to put your new baseboards on.

And if The Redhead can do this, so can you!

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Hard Core Remodeling but Were Afraid to Ask Part 3!

 The next thing we need to do is make a beam to hold the loft aloft.

An unaloft loft is a loss.

Does this mean you're going to learn a new trick?

Of course, because this is

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Hard Core Remodeling but Were Afraid to Ask!

Today, we're going to learn the magic of ...

...drum roll please...

SCABBING!

Hey, it's a thing, I swear.

Yesterday, we built a temporary wall to shore up our falling loft

so we don't get squished like bugs during repairs.

Eventually, the afore mentioned repairs have to begin.

 We need a beam 147", and we'll be using three 2x6 pieces of lumber that are 10 feet long.

Yep, 122".

Since that's not long enough, we're going to use a technique that

will actually make the resulting pieced beam stronger.

First, we'll take two of the boards and lay one on top of the other.

Slide the top board until the total length of both boards together 

measures 147".

Nail the two together using pairs of long nails every 12 inches or so.

Notice there's an overhang at each end.

Using another piece of 2x6, cut two lengths of board 25" long

using our tutorial on making accurate cuts.

Fit the new lengths into the overhangs and nail them into place

with pairs of nails.

Fitting wood in to fill the space is known as scabbing.

You, my Bestie, have scabbed.

You now have a very strong, solid support beam that will hold up a floor!

We have also moved the support column over so it's actually UNDER something.

I hear that's helpfully in keeping a floor UP.

Remove the completely useless space blocks someone added to the bean channel

in what I imagined was a drunken haze.

Slide your new Super Beam into place.

Note that it's going on top of the column.

Seeya, gravity.

Once you have it up there, screw it into place from the back.

We're going to wrap this later when we do the decorative work,

and it will look like a typical Coastal Carolina column.

Come back tomorrow and we'll show you how to do a simple project

that will save you money even if you're having a pro in to

do the work!